February 07, 2023 – Tugela Ferry, KwaZulu Natal, South Africa
When a Zulu is born, his/her umbilical cord is buried near the place of birth. That place becomes the person’s spiritual home. Throughout their lives, when one Zulu meets another he will ask; Inkaba yakho iphi?, literally “where is your navel?” The answer tells the other person where they live, what their clan affiliation is, and what their social status is. Inkaba yakho iphi identifies where a person belongs.
When a Zulu dies, his family visits his place of death and snags the deceased’s spirit on a Buffalo Thorn branch. The spirit is carefully transported on the branch to their sacred birthplace. The spirit of the dead then dwells with the ancestors, who are all connected by the earth.
During the day, Zulu people are most comfortable when their feet are on the ground, in contact with the ancestors.
There are five million people living in Soweto, outside of Johannesburg. No building in the entire township is more than two stories tall. To this day, Zulu people will not live more than ten feet above the ground, at risk of being disconnected from their ancestors.
During the night, the rules change. Zulu sleep on an elevated bed, which raises them above the floor and out of the clutches of the evil spirit Tikoloshe. If a Zulu sleeps on the ground they might become ill, or even die, at the hands of the malevolent creature.
There is a theory that the Tikoloshe myth came about as the result of Zulu sleeping on the floor with fires burning. In cold weather, oxygen levels would be depleted, replaced by heavier-than-air carbon monoxide. The Zulu noticed that illness was less likely to occur if they slept on an elevated pallet, or a bed with legs.
Millions of Zulu continue to fear the Tikoloshe.
Then: The Zulus believe that a solar eclipse occurs when a crocodile eats the sun. This celestial crocodile, they say, briefly consumes the life-giving sun as a warning that he is much displeased with the behaviour of man. It is the very worst of omens.
Now: The Zulu people have generally converted to a syncretic blend of Christianity and traditional beliefs. They believe in the virgin birth, talking serpents, and turning water into wine. The Zulu have blended those tenets of Christianity, with the no less implausible doctrines of ancestor worship, sun eating crocodiles, and …
… the Tikoloshe under the bed.
Nelson Mandela’s house in Soweto.
Three of Mandela’s children would point to this place if asked, “where is your navel?”
Chris
I have enjoyed all of your stories and these photos. Thanks for sharing Russ.
Russ
Thanks Chris. It is a beautiful country, lots of character!
Val G
So are those zebras just casually strolling about much like the deer we see out our cabin window? I’m loving these posts – the photos are all so captivating.
Russ
Yes, the zebras generally get out of the way when you get close, the giraffe need a little more persuasion. There are about a dozen types of antelope, which I have not put names to yet. The domestic cattle and goats OWN the road, people are allowed to use it, begrudgingly.
Liz Geach
What a pleasure it has been for me to read through your fantastic blogs, Russell. I see Africa again for the first time through your eyes. This is a gift, as sometimes I become bogged down with daily frustrations and disappointments and forget to appreciate the wonderous beauty in our people and their stories. I look forward to reading about the rest of your journey.
Russ
Thank you for joining us on the journey!